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Here is the frame and rear end after being sand blasted and painted. (Photos 3/9/99) |
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Here are some more pictures of the completed chassis. Modifications include 2-1/2" drop spindles and 1-1/2" drop springs up front and 6" drop springs in back. I've also added Nitro-Drop shocks all around, a front anti-sway bar, a modified panhard bar, and a rear shock relocation kit. All these suspension parts were purchased from Early Classic Enterprises. (Photos 3/9/99) |
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Here are some shots of the rear air bags installed. The first picture shows the suspension at about ride height (with the air bag at a height of 5"-6"). The second photo shows the suspension bottomed out (resting on the snubber). (Photos 9/16/01) |
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Here are some shots of the c-notch installed and an interference problem that I ran across. With the suspension bottomed out, the track bar hit the bottom of the frame on the passenger side before the axle tube hit the snubber. Also, the track bar relocation bracket (by Early Classic Enterprises) came very close to hitting the side of the frame. (Photos 9/1/01) |
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To solve this problem, I modified (hacked up) the relocation bracket and welded it to the inside of the trailing arm. By doing this I've eliminated all interference, while still keeping it functional. (Photo 9/6/01) |
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Here are some shots of the front air bags installed (prior to my front cross member modifications). The first two pictures show the suspension at about ride height (with the air bag at a height of 5"). The other photos show the suspension bottomed out. (Photos 11/27/01) |
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Here are some shots of the Summit 16-gallon fuel cell. (Photos 4/24/01) |
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Front cross member modifications - Part I |
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These two pictures show the truck sitting with all air bags set to 5.5" tall (Recommended height is 5" to 6"). The dimension from the ground to the top of the wheel opening is 27" in the rear and 28-5/8" in the front. Not cool. I could of shimmed the rear bags to level the truck out, but wasn't happy with how "high" the truck sat in the front. I also could have lowered the front end by lowering the air pressure, but then I compromised my ride quality. Conclusion? The front end's gotta go lower! To accomplish this, I'm going to basically raise the upper bag mount thus allowing the front end to sit lower with the bag at the recommended height. |
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Stock cross member prior to cut. |
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Cross member after cut. |
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New plates cut to fit and set in place. |
Edges sandblasted and prepped for welding. |
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New plates tack welded in place. PVC pipe screw fittings set to 5.5" tall set in place to simulate air bag. |
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With the air bag set to 5.5" tall on existing cross member, the dimension shown is 10.125". With the modified cross member, the dimension shown is 7.5". This results in approximately 2.5" more drop, which is more than needed for my desired ride height. The height of the lower cup can be set to achieve that ride height. |
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Here are some shot of all the plates welded to the cross member. |
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Here are some shots with some braces welded in to give it a little more strength. Next step is to drill the bag mounting holes. |
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Here is the mounting plate with holes drilled/cut to accept the air bag plate. |
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Here is the air bag plate. The purpose of this plate is to allow the position of the upper bag to be adjusted if needed. Also, with the loss of space above the plate, it will allow me to easily install and remove the bag. |
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Here is the air bag mounted to the plate. The elbow fitting and nuts will fit in the holes in the mounting plate. The bag plate will attach to the mounting plate with a couple nuts and bolts. |
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These pictures show the air bag and plate setting on the cross member. The first picture shows the air line routed inside the cross member. |
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Here is the lower a-arm mounted to the cross member with the bag in place. The height of the bag in the first picture is about 5.5" tall (which will be the ride height). (Recommended bag height is 5" to 6" at ride height). Notice how the bag sits in there nice and vertical! The other pictures show the bag fully compressed and fully extended. |
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Front cross member modifications - Part II |
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When these trucks are lowered to this extreme, the wheels get pushed backwards and are no longer centered in the wheel well. This looks ghetto. To remedy this problem, I'm essentially going to move the spindles forward. This will be done by first of all relocating the upper a-arm mounting bracket forward 1.5" and then modifying the lower a-arm to move the lower ball joint an equal distance forward. |
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This picture shows the upper bracket moved forward 1.5". These brackets were originally attached to the cross member with 4 rivets per side. Now they welded across the front edge and bolted in two spots as shown. |
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A-arms and bags removed from truck. No turning back now! |
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Here is the lower a-arm marked and ready to be hacked! The metal plate that will go between the two pieces is 1/4" thick. Therefore I cut between the two lines with a thin cut-off wheel and then ground it down to the1/4" marks. |
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Here are the ends tack-welded back on the a-arm with the 1/4" plate in between. The ends were shifted forward 1.5" to match the upper arm's new location. Next I'll finish welding the pieces together, then weld a plate across the top of the joint to give it a more smooth shape (and some added strength). |
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Here are some top view pics of a lower a-arm fully welded. Not as pretty as a custom tubular a-arm, but it should do the trick! |
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...... and the bottom side. |
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These pictures show the modified upper a-arm ends. With the a-arms in this "low" of a position, the ball joint angles were way off. Now at ride height (as shown in the pictures), the ball joint studs are centered in the joint which will allow a full range of travel without binding. |
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Here are some shots with the suspension temporarily reassembled. |
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Next step is to get all the parts cleaned up and painted. Then it can be installed in the truck for the real test! I also need to weld on the brake line mounting brackets and install a rubber bumper to limit the suspension's travel (to keep the a-arms off the pavement!). Also, I will most likely have make a small notch in the top, front side of the driver's side a-arm for steering shaft clearance. I don't foresee any steering linkage clearance issues, but I'll have to wait and see when it's installed on the truck. Total cost? Approx. $60 |
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Okay! The big test! In these pictures, the bags are about 5.5" tall. Looks MUCH better with the ride height this low. I did loose a lot of "lift" out of the front suspension, but what would I need lift for???? I've got plenty of ground clearance at this height. I can get a couple more inches out of the front end, but that's it. If I do find that it rides "too low" (yeah, right!) I can always increase the lower spring cup height. I have no shims in the front end, so there is some negative camber. The wheels even look to be slightly ahead of centered, but just barley. I think shimming the upper a-arm will take care of that. |
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